20.1.13

Hawaii : Café Ohi'a



Between hikes, it's always good to refill energy with a great sandwich. Café Ohi'a was much better than I could expect (from any sandwich place in the world) as they offered master veggie blends, so you could pick'n'mix your ingredients without any impact on the price.

Kind service, cheap coffee refill.

Portion sizing deserves a separate comment, as they were MAJOR! I mean, what it looks - for the average European eye - as double is actually one sandwich (whereas mine… Was half!!). After this, we understood why their price was relatively hight (about 7$ each) but well worth it.

Café Ohi'a [MAP]
19 Haunani Road Volcano, HI 96785

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20.1.13

Hawaii : Volcanoes National Park I - Kilauea



With three active volcanoes and a geological history dating (at least) 70 million years, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is an ideal destination for hiking & camping apart from being the only Unesco World Heritage Site of Hawaii.

These Volcanoes are all active. Amazing on one hand, but may turn dangerous provided you don't get the right information before starting to walk. Always start your visit at the Kilauea Visitor Center where they will kindly update you on which trails are open and recommend a route, based on your availability in terms of time, attire & physical condition.

As we are into walking (I even bought those fugly shoes to protect my toes from scratches), we picked Kīlauea to start with. This shield volcano is the most active of the five volcanoes in the island of Hawaiʻi.

What is a shield volcano? Why do we care at all? Well, it turns out that these type of volcanoes lack the explosive gases of the dramatic (read : deadly) strato volcanoes that throw ash & flaming rocks into the air. This makes it possible to hike around the caldera (even while its eruption is still ongoing) and to chase their lava flows (something we will experience later on).

Next, some imagery on the Kilauea Iki Trail. 6km loop around the crater, perfect morning trail.

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19.1.13

Hawaii : Luau



Shaka man! Welcome to the Luau!



Se conoce como luau a una gran comilona de cerdo asado en horno Polinesio - básicamente enterrado con piedras a 300C durante 8h - hula y danzas de fuego. Todos los hoteles organizan este tipo de evento, al que la mayoría de los turistas asisten - como mínimo una vez - durante su estancia en Hawaii. 

La mayoría se va sin entender que el luau representa la ruptura de los Hawaiianos con sus sistema tradicional y que fue creado hace relativamente poco, cuando en 1819, el rey Kamehameha II (hijo de aquel que unificó las islas en un reino) decidió abolir las reglas que prohibían que las mujeres disfrutaran en estos eventos (no podían asistir, ni cocinar, ni probar el plátano, el cerdo o según que pescado).

Bienvenidos... Al despiporre Hawaiian Style!


Before contact with the western world, Hawaiians called their important feasts an 'aha'aina (‘aha – gathering and ‘aina – meal). These feasts marked special occasions — such as reaching a significant life milestone, victory at war, the launching of a new canoe or a great endeavor.

They believed in celebrating these occasions with their friends and families.

Historically, the food and practices observed at an 'aha 'aina were rich with symbolism and the entire event was designed to unite the participants, similar to the way the old Hawaiians braided strands of coconut husk fiber, or sennit, into thicker 'aha cords and rope. Certain foods represented strength while the names or attributes of other foods related to virtues or goals the participants hoped to achieve.

There were also certain foods that were off limits to commoners and women. Such delicacies included moi (exquisite tasting near-shore reef fish), pork, and bananas were forbidden to all but the Alii (chiefs of ancient Hawai'i) including the great King Kamehameha. Men and women also ate separately during meals.

In 1819 King Kamehameha II ended traditional religious practices. To celebrate this event he feasted with women to signify major societal changes. Shortly after, the term luau gradually replaced 'aha 'aina. Luau, in Hawaiian is actually the name of the taro leaf, which when young and small is cooked like spinach. The traditional luau was eaten on the floor over lauhala (leaves of the hala tree were weaved together) mats. Luau attendees enjoyed poi (staple of Polynesian food made from the corm of the taro plant), dried fish, and pork cooked in the traditional Hawaiian imu (underground oven), sweet potatoes, bananas and everything was eaten with one’s fingers.




While the sun sets, the party warms up on free-bar MaiTais



The luau pig is about to be taken out of the imu (underground oven), first event of the afternoon.



Tourist Style.





Digging deep.





Unwrapping the pig, smoked on its own fat & hot volcanic stones.



Some tropical leaves, for flavour.



Here it is! Say 1,2,3 and we carry back!





All you can eat AND drink - Welcome to America!



With full plates and full glasses, we are all set for the show to start.



High speed hula, drums and hips shaking all at a time.





Hula as if it was the Merrie Monarch Festival. This festivity was created in 1963 in Hilo. It actually honors King David Kalakaua (1863-91) who fought hard to revive Hawaiian culture and arts, including hula, which had been forbidden by missionaries for almost 70 years.





Hula is now very popular all over the world and particularly, in Japan, where your average gym (i.e. like mine) offers Hula classes as it's done for belly dance.





Some Polynesian songs...



… and poi.



Finally, the fire dance!!





Yeah! The guy was on fire - in all senses.



The food was actually quite nice, but we felt really bad during the day after. Probably we ate too much or they put some artificial smoke in the pig's meat, because that thirst was… Unbelievable!

Either way, it was cheaper than the cheapest in Oahu and conveniently held at our hotel :)
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19.1.13

Hawaii : Kealakekua Bay

Another great snorkeling spot in Hawaii is the place where Captain Cook was killed, after a bloody tit-for-tat retaliation, in 1779. There is a 9m high memorial obelisk, but the thing to commemorate is the peaceful rocky bay that hides more colorful fishes.

The site is pretty popular among snorkeling tours, so it may turn a bit frustrating - IMO after a 2-hour hike, you would like to be alone in there… Or at least surrounded by others who suffered as much as you did - even if, at the end of the day, is totally worth it.



Here we go!

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18.1.13

Hawaii : Acai Bowl



Açai is a highly nutritious palm berry that grows on a tall, thin palm in the Amazon flood plains.

Açai palms grow natively along the riverbanks of the rainforest where the humidity and mineral content of the earth make for perfect growing conditions. The açai palm can reach heights of up to 60 feet tall. High in the canopy of its pristine environment, the Açai palm produces clusters of dark purple berries. Although similar in look and size of a blueberry, the Açai berry is 90% seed with only a thin oily skin. This purple skin of the berry possesses tremendous health properties and has been used by Amazon natives for centuries.

In Kona, Basik Cafe is famous for its açai bowls - basically a base of açai pulp blended with fruits, cereals and other goodies such as cacao nibs- healthy, refreshing & nutritious, they are the perfect brunch for all green hipsters around.

Highly recommended!!

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18.1.13

Hawaii : Kahalu'u Beach Park



Kahalu'u is the place for snorkel in Hawaii. [MAP]
Close to Kona and all the resorts around, this sandy beach offers a myriad fishes, apart from a chance to swim with the most amazing animal EVER… The sea turtle!

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18.1.13

Hawaii : Kailua Kona



Kailua-Kona is maybe the place I recommend to stay at, provided you travel to the Big island.

It's sunny year-round (unlike Hilo, where it gets dramatically rainy in winter - literally pouring tropical style) it offers entertainment in the form of open restaurants and cafés serving organic acai bowls, local coffee (yep, Kona coffee) and ukelele songs that come for free with a cozy dinner beside the tough breaking waves. It's nice for the driver as he can drink his beer, without having to take the car back home and conveniently close to the major snorkeling spots, diving schools & shopping districts.

Here's where Kamehameha The Great spent his last year, worshipping at the stunning Ahu'ena Heiau and when his son, right after he had died, broke an important kapu (taboo) by allowing man to dine together with women, letting girls eat long-banned-foods such as pork or banana.

Have you watched that Simpson's chapter, when they travel to an island in the Pacific and essentially destroy it by getting the islanders into gambling and beer-like drinks? Well, that's more or less what happened for real in Hawaiian history, when around 1820 the huge amount of rules that had dictated behavior since the early days akakapu was abolished.

First things first, let's take a walk downtown!!

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17.1.13

Kauai : Shipwreck Beach



For most Hawaii means Big Waves and surf (= hotties doing crazy stuff)
So hold your undies!! This is surfin' USA!!

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17.1.13

Kauai : Maha'ulepu Trail



Da un poco de pena dejar atrás Kauai, así que nos despedimos por todo lo alto, caminando por los acantilados de Maha'ulepu. Básicamente son 6km de ir (otros tantos de vuelta) a través de acantilados, junglas, ruinas sagradas Hawaiianas o heiau, calas ocultas y hasta un campo de golf. Agua, protección solar y unas sandalias cómodas bastan, en una ruta que cualquiera puede andar.

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16.1.13

Kauai : Koloa Town & the Tropical Garden



Generally speaking, I am against all sorts of artificial setting as nothing beats the experience of the nature in pure state. Same goes with everything, I mean… Nothing tastes as organic, warms as fur and lightens as sunshine. Still, I appreciate the purpose of Botanical Gardens specially when captured through a talented lens (what am I gonna say `=^·^=´).

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16.1.13

Kauai : Whale Watching



Hawaii es perfecto para una escapada de invierno. Todos lo tenemos bastante claro, hasta las ballenas, que cada año emigran en masa (al estilo Japonés) desde el Norte del Pacífico hasta aguas cálidas.

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15.1.13

Kauai : The Queen's Bath



The lava holes are filled with seawater and opening up for natural pools with outstanding views. The problem is that the surf splashes in softly most of the time, but big waves come in sets… So after a 20 minute period of calm, a 4m wave appears, seemingly out of nowhere. 28 people have already died there, by walking along the ledge used to access it. 

First, we were scared of crossing. But watching kids coming back and forth, we followed some locals to the other side.

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