12.12.16

Bali - Sanur Reklamasi

Sanur beach, Bali

En la serenidad de la playa de Sanur todo el mundo se siente bienvenido. Turistas que quieren probar el viento alternan con familias locales que pasan el día y pescadores que recogen marisco al atardecer. Hay algún que otro resort que convive en armonía con el entorno donde todo parece moverse a cámara lenta, incluyendo una bandera con el mismo mensaje que hemos visto en muchos carteles durante nuestras vacaciones:
Teluk Benoa Reklamasi
Básicamente, el movimiento "for Bali" rechaza un decreto impuesto por el Gobernador de Bali, justo antes de terminar su legislatura, en el que se abolía el estado de "reserva marina" en la bahía de Benoa, para convertirla en distrito de uso general i.e. permitir la edificación descontrolada de hoteles y resorts. Básicamente, con la cláusula No51 del 2014, se abolía la cláusula 55 del 2011 que la declaraba protegida.

El plan maestro consiste en reclamar 838 hectáreas de la bahía, para convertir el 75% de las mismas en terreno edificable que por lo tanto, elevará el nivel del mar 1.6m. Esto causará el desplazamiento de 7.9 millones de m3 que inundarán las zonas colindantes, destruyendo el manglar y toda la biodiversidad que conlleva.

Este tipo de tragedias paradisíacas me causan una melancolía extrema. Me deprime ver que en todas partes (industria o gobierno) hay líderes incapaces de decidir estratégicamente, para sólo mirar por su propio beneficio. Cómo pueden vivir ignorando las consecuencias a largo plazo que este tipo de decisiones tienen en la propia economía de la isla y en la ecología del planeta, en última instancia? Aún reduciéndolo a términos económicos - ignorando por completo el impacto medioambiental, que es por supuesto importantísimo - el business case no te sale positivo, si lo estudias a medio-largo plazo. Si te cargas todas las razones por las que la isla es especial, te vas a cargar tu propio negocio. De ahí mi repulsa hacia toda esta situación y continuada intriga, acerca de cómo pueden dormir algunos por las noches.

Si algo nos llamó la atención al pasear por Nusa Dua, fue lo vacíos que estaban aquellos hoteles de superlujo. Quizás una pequeña muestra de la poca falta que hace más edificiación en la isla. Os dejo unos carteles cuyo diseño gráfico me llamó la atención (por la isla había muchos más, con cangrejos destrozando excavadoras y criaturas mitológicas frenando la construcción, que no he conseguido encontrar).

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9.12.16

Bali - Pura Goa Lawah

Pura Goa Lawah, bat cave temple in Bali

One of nine sacred temples on the island of Bali, the cave temple known as Pura Goa Lawah is home to thousands of bats. Local legend says that it hides a river of healing waters, a titanic snake called Vasuki wearing a crown while feeding on bats and also, that the cave connects to the largest and holiest temple in Bali, Pura Besakih - that cannot be visited though as the area is controlled by the mafia, who'll either charge tourists a lot of money or beat the hell out of them.

Created sometime around 1007 by an Indonesian saint, the structure revolves around the cave entrance, being ministered to and provided with prayer on a daily basis. The temple did not really have a name when it was built but because of the thousands of bats that live in the cave, the temple was called Goa Lawah - meaning "cave" and "bat" respectively. The extent of the sacred cave has never been explored but Pura Goa Lawah is host to devout worshippers from all around, who come to pray at the mouth of this impressive bat cave.

It is possible to explore the area near the cave but also another temple which is located at the top of the mountain.



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8.12.16

Bali - Padangbai & Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon, Padangbai, Bali

A medida que te alejas del sur de la isla, Bali se vuelve más verde, más antiguo y más encantador. La zona de Padangbai está en la costa Este, a unas 3 horas en coche del centro. Es un camino largo que ofrece escapadas perfectas, para bucear o hacer snorkel en las que merece la pena invertir el tiempo. Aunque no nos diera tiempo a visitar Gili Trawangan, creo que es un viaje muy apetecible. Sales en ferry desde Padangbai y pasas ahí una noche. Aunque esté bastante preparado para los turistas, la manera en la que los locales se refieren a esta isla indica que tiene una magia especial.

Preparando este post, descubrí un accidente ocurrido en Septiembre de 2016, en el que uno de estos barcos explotó, hiriendo a varios pasajeros y dejando un muerto. Aunque Bali sea un paraíso, común en muchas revistas de viaje, lunas de miel y blogs como este, hay que tener en mente que Indonesia, como Filipinas, es un país en vías de desarrollo, donde las cosas son baratas pero las regulaciones son más laxas. Igual que se ha hundido más de uno de los ferries que te lleva a Boracay desde el aeropuerto más cercano, han pasado cosas así. Es una lástima, pero explorar el mundo siempre conlleva un riesgo asociado y por eso, hay que sentirse agradecido cuando una escapada transcurre sin sucesos.

Dicho esto, volvamos a Padangbai, donde pasamos un día, haciendo snorkel en Blue Lagoon y explorando un templo muy especial. Blue Lagoon es una playa que me habían recomendado mis "expertos en Bali", esos expats basados en Jakarta que se acercan por la isla siempre que pueden. Hacer snorkel en esa playa es una experiencia interesante. Hay un punto en el que el fondo pasa de ser azul claro a oscuro - una línea muy definida - y los peces empiezan a aparecer. Vimos un par de triggerfish, preciosos con su millón de colores brillantes, pero tuvimos que salir por patas, al ir sin aletas con las que protegernos de ellos (son peces que se ponen violentos si nadas sobre su nido, mejor alejarse). Lo único negativo de Blue Lagoon es la corriente. Hacía mucho tiempo que no pasaba tan mal rato para salir de una playa, pero me ví nadando y nadando sin conseguir llegar a la orilla. Así que ya sabéis, snorkel sí pero con cuidado.

La regla de oro del snorkel es comenzar la vuelta a la orilla cuando todavía vayas sobrado de fuerzas, para reducir el riesgo asociado a una corriente fuerte como a la que nos tocó enfrentar aquel día... Puedes reponer energía con un zumo natural, en el único chiringuito de la playa.


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7.12.16

Bali - Tari Kecak Uluwatu

Kecak at Uluwatu, Bali
Excited on the way to the theatre - see the mass of people already there behind my back...

Kecak originated in the 1930s in Bali but has roots in sanghyang, a trance-inducing exorcism dance which is considered sacred and shall never be performed to tourists or for entertainment purposes. The most common piece is the Ramayana Monkey Chant, a piece performed by a circle of at least 150 performers wearing checked cloth around their waists, percussively chanting "cak" and moving their hands and arms. Actors in the scene depict a battle from the Ramayana, where the monkey-like Vanara led by Hanuman helped Prince Rama fight the evil King Ravana. Interestingly enough, this is exactly the same story we see in the walls of Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok.

But if Thai are primarily Buddhists while Balinese are Hinduists, how could this be possible? The answer is that "The Ramayana" is one of the largest ancient epics in world literature. Since it is very old but useful, as it depicts the duties of relationships, portraying ideal characters like the ideal father, the ideal servant, the ideal brother, the ideal wife and the ideal king, the Ramayana was an important influence that spread around different countries in Asia. This is how the characters Rama, Sita, Lakshmana, Bharata, Hanuman and Ravana became fundamental to the cultural consciousness of India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia and Indonesia. As there are many versions of the Ramayana in Indian languages, besides Buddhist and Jain adaptations; and also Cambodian, Indonesian, Filipino, Thai, Lao, Burmese and Malaysian versions of the tale.

To participate in the Kecak dance, you should buy the tickets as soon as you arrive to the temple (at least 1h before the show) use the time to explore the area and then rush to the scene, so you can grab a good seat to experience the local art in one of its purest forms. While the public is mostly foreign, it feels like a very pure and untouched event within the local culture. A rare experience these days...



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6.12.16

Bali - Pura Luhur Uluwatu

Pura Luhur Uluwatu, Bali

Pura Luhur Uluwatu es un poco el finisterre de Bali. Localizado en la punta suroeste de la isla, en lo alto de un acantilado, forma parte de la cadena de 7 templos en el agua que empieza en Tanah Lot. Aunque sólo los hindúes tienen permitida la entrada, dar un paseo por los alrededores al atardecer y presenciar el espectáculo Kecak en el teatro al aire libre de al lado, es una de los recuerdos más vívidos que te traerás de Bali. Ten cuidado con los monos que habitan por la zona, están muy acostumbrados a los humanos y les encanta robar cosas.

Aunque Uluwatu se construyó en el siglo XI, fue Nirarta - el fundador de Tanah Lot - quien añadió el complejo que vemos hoy en día.



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5.12.16

Bali - Nusa Dua

Nusa Dua, Bali

Visitamos Nusa Dua como primera parada del día, antes de continuar hacia Uluwatu y sus danzas tradicionales. Aparte del Pasifika Museum que contiene obras relacionadas con Polinesia, tanto pinturas como trabajos tallados en madera, creados a lo largo de muchos siglos en localizaciones dispersas por el Pacífico, la zona no merece demasiado la pena

Se trata de una trampa turística de lujo, donde resorts inertes se suceden uno tras otro. Lujosas tumbonas vacías frente a una playa en la que no puedes entrar sin patucos a consecuencia de los erizos autóctonos. Si estás planeando un viaje a Bali, te recomiendo evitar esta zona en la que la especulación inmobiliaria ha destrozado el entorno autóctono. 

La cúspide de todo esto es el Benoa Marine Recreation Center, una trampa turística donde masas de chinos hacen cola para probar el parasailing durante 10 excitantes minutos de su vida. Nosotros picamos en visitar turtle island, recordando con nostalgia nuestro tiempo en Hawaii. La realidad fue bastante decepcionante. En lugar de encontrar tortugas relajadas en la arena, nos vimos en medio de una especie de criadero pseudocientífico donde las tortugas estaban metidas en piscinas de chapoteos. 

Ahorra tu dinero e inviértelo en visitar el Norte de la isla - una zona que se nos quedó en el tintero, pero que exploraremos en detalle la próxima vez.



Nusa Dua, Bali
Para fans de la cultura Polinesia, el museo está bastante bien.
Nusa Dua, Bali
Dimos un paseo por la zona de Nusa Dua pero no fue realmente placentero ya que te sentías cual invasor de las playas privadas de los hoteles, que se suceden una tras otra.
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4.12.16

Bali - Surfin' and Shoppin' Kuta style

Kuta beach, Bali
Enrique demostrando cómo se hace... Jugaba con ventaja tras el cursillo en Cape Town...

El verdor de Bali delata la cantidad de lluvias que riegan la isla con bastante frecuencia. Por eso, aunque visites la isla durante la temporada seca (oficialmente, la temporada de lluvias dura de Octubre a Abril), es bastante probable que te salga algún día lluvioso. Nosotros lo pasamos en la playa de Kuta - una de los surf breaks más largos del mundo, tratando de aprender a hacer surf con una tabla que alquilamos todo el día por unos 5EUR (sin demasiado éxito). Al arreciar la tormenta, nos refugiamos en el centro comercial adyacente llamado Beachwalk donde arrasamos (unas converse de piel, camisetas de quicksilver, un bañador de la marca local 69SLAM y algún polo de Ralph Lauren para Enrique, cositas de TOPSHOP para mí).

La verdad es que 69SLAM nos sorprendió, por lo cool de sus estampados y lo económico de sus precios. Sin duda, una buena opción para un souvenir especial.



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1.12.16

Bali - Echo Beach, Canggu

Echo beach Canggu, Bali

Our second day in Bali ended with sunset Coconut Mojitos at Echo Beach. Located in Canggu area, Echo beach is a really cool spot where I wished we would have spent some nights. Echo Beach is a surfing mecca, a long strip of sand washed by surf breaks, packed with young people, cheaper hostels and yummy cafés. It felt like Tarifa on the other side of the world really, a place you can't miss. Regardless of whether you are surfing, trying to learn or just a beach bum, Echo beach has less of tourist buzz and more of the real chill.

Sunset drinks at The Lawn, Canggu - it's a simple foodtruck that serves drinks but it does the job rather well...


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30.11.16

Bali - Luwak Coffee


Luwak coffee

Kopi luwak refers to the coffee that includes part-digested coffee cherries eaten and defecated by the cute Asian palm civet (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus).

Producers of the coffee beans argue that the luwaks improve coffee through two mechanisms:

  • Selection: If the civet chooses to eat the cherries, it's because they are excellent.
  • Digestion: Fermentation occurs in the digestive tract of the luwak where his protease enzymes seep into the beans making shorter peptides and more free amino acids. Beans are collected from there fecal matter.

The origin of kopi luwak is closely connected with the history of coffee production in Indonesia. In the early 18th century the Dutch established the cash-crop coffee plantations in their colony in the Dutch East Indies islands of Java and Sumatra, including Arabica coffee introduced from Yemen. During the era of Cultuurstelsel (1830–70), the Dutch prohibited the native farmers and plantation workers from picking coffee fruits for their own use. But still, the native farmers wanted to have a taste of the famed coffee beverage. They observed that certain species of luwak (Asian palm civet) consumed the coffee fruits, but left the coffee seeds undigested in their poo. So the natives collected these luwaks' coffee seed droppings, cleaned, roasted and ground them, to make their own coffee!!

The fame of aromatic civet coffee spread from locals to Dutch plantation owners, becoming their favourite. Because of its rarity and unusual process, civet coffee was expensive even during the colonial era. 

While the coffee industry regards this as a gimmick, it is quite a cool thing to give a shot while visiting Tanah Lot. Experts may say the aroma and body is diminshed by the luwak effect but as a  nescafé drinker, I couldn't really tell any difference, maybe a bit lighter than the powder...

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29.11.16

Bali - Pura Tanah Lot

Pura Tanah Lot temple on the sea in Bali

Tanah Lot means "land in the sea" which is quite accurate for a temple built directly on the rock located, but away from the shoreline. The temple is the work of 16th century architect Dang Hyang Nirartha, who saw the rock during his travels along the south coast of Bali and decided to rest in there. Fishermen saw him and brought some gifts. Nirartha spent the night in the island and told the fishermen to build a shrine in there, as he felt it was the perfect place to worship the Balinese sea gods. The main deity of the temple is Dewa Baruna (sea god) but Nirartha himself is also worshipped there. The temple is one of seven sea temples around the Balinese coast. Each was established within eyesight of the next, to form a chain along the south-western coast, isnt't it cool?

In 1980, the temple's rock face was starting to crumble and the area around and inside the temple started to become dangerous. But the Japanese Government provided a loan of US130$ million to their Indonesian counterparts, to be able to conserve these temple and another locations around Bali. Nowadays, more than 1/3 of Tanah Lot's rock is actually cleverly disguised artificial rock created during the Japanese-funded and supervised renovation and stabilization program. すごいですね。

We came at high tide, so it was not possible to walk over. Still we had the opportunity to taste the famous Luwak coffee, but about that we'll talk tomorrow...


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28.11.16

Bali - Taman Ayun water temple

Pura Taman Ayun water temple in Bali

The huge royal water temple of Pura Taman Ayun, surrounded by a wide, elegant moat, was the main temple of the Mengwi kingdom, which survived until 1891, when it was conquered by the neighbouring kingdoms of Tabanan and Badung. The large temple was built in 1634 and extensively renovated in 1937. It's a spacious place to wander around and you'll be able to get away from speed-obsessed group-tour mobs.

Pura Taman Ayun was built in 1634 by the Raja of Mengwi, I Gusti Agung Putu. It is a so-called Pura Kawiten or family temple, a special temple where the deified ancestors of the Raja Dynasty of Mengwi and important gods of other temples are honored.

The Taman Ayun temple is boardered by broad canals and it can only be entered via a bridge leading to a richly ornamented split gate called candid bentar which you will see in all our temple pictures. It gives access to the outer courtyard called jaba of the temple. From the gate, a footpath leads through the beautiful garden (Taman Ayun means beautiful garden) to a square pond with a fountain in the middle, that has 9 jets: 4 at the cardinal points, 4 at the sub-cardinal points and 1 in the center, in honor of the Dewa Nawa Sanga or nine main gods of Balinese Hinduism. There is a second courtyard and third one surrounded by water, where the most important shrines are located. In Bali, you can count the amount of roofs that the tiered meru has, in order to understand the importance of the temple. These are always odd number, the closer to 9, the more important.

Pura Taman Ayun is located about 8 km southwest of Ubud. It is a typical, touristy, yet mandatory.



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25.11.16

Bali - Jatiluwih Rice Fields

Jatiluwih rice terrace, Bali

Jatiluwih means truly marvellous and offers vistas of centuries-old rice terraces on million shades of green. We stopped by when the rain was pouring down on the fields and I don't know how, but Enrique managed to pull these contrasting shades against the grey sky - quite a different take from our day in Ubud. I wouldn't recommend to come just here, but if you make it to Pura Luhur Batukaru, check it out on the way back. It's an 18km road along the terraces where the only thing your eyes see is this vivid green.


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24.11.16

Bali - Pura Luhur Batukaru

Pura Luhur Batukaru temple off the beaten track in Bali

During our second day in the island - actually the day when I got reunited with my beloved suitcase - we did a route with a personal driver. This is extremely common in Indonesia, for the record, when you are sent to Jakarta on project, you are assigned a driver to take you to the office and back or anywhere you like. The roads are just too crowded, polluted and dangerous to drive by yourself. Hence, as a tourist, it is also quite common to get hire a driver for the day. Bali is a large island (even though the traffic is a lot better than Jakarta, the city of three-hours-to-the-customer-office), it does help a lot to have your personal tour arranged as the day passes by. I can give you guys the number of our driver, which was great... Just not 100% comfortable leaving his number right on the post.

Pura Luhur Batukaru was the first stop of the day. One of the island's holiest yet most underrated temples. Imagine an extremely spiritual spot where the masses of Chinese tourists don't come, located near the base of Gunung Batukaru, Bali's second highest mountain (2276m). The atmosphere is cool, misty and quiet. There are (at most) three couples visiting the area along with some locals praying. The temple is dedicated to Maha Dewa, the mountain's guardian spirit but it also has shrines for Bhatan, Buyan and Tamlingan lakes. I am not sure if it is because of being the first major temple we explored or because it is really that special, but the fact is I keep the memories very vivid. Pictures don't lie. It is really that amazing!



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23.11.16

Bali - Seminyak foodie

foodie in Seminyak area, Bali

I love Asia. When it comes to culture, aesthetic, travel, life... Everything. I don't have issues sampling different kinds of food in a wide range of restaurant styles (from fancy rooftop spots to streetmarkets). The only problem is that back home, we eat quite clean, so after a couple of days eating local things, I start to feel terrible. Extremely heavy, thirsty all the time and deprived of hunger altogether. Hence, when traveling I do my best to balance - typically getting a full continental breakfast, minor lunch of local things and dinner including my staples (salad, raw/grilled protein).

We walked around Seminyak in the previous post, as in this we'll cover 2 favourites restaurants of Bali - the third is Warung Bamboo in Jimbaran Beach, which are ideal for my favourite meals of the day (breakfast and dinner). We had some problem with cash availability during our last night, but I would have loved to stay for party in La Favela, which is also in Seminyak area. Basically we could not get any cash with our debit card (and I had forgotten credit at the hotel) so we had to go back home, fearing we couldn't pay for any drinks we ordered... Still the mood, decoration and music was just perfect for ending a vacation. We did have dinner but took no pictures at Cafe Bali, which is an ultra decorated place where Birthday's are celebrated with Pitbull's fireball.

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22.11.16

Bali - Seminyak


Seminyak Bali

Seminyak is one of the areas in Bali I really liked. We explored other "spots" together with our lovely driver, but this is a place where we walked for hours checking tones of cool places. We hardly have time together or put simply, time to go shopping, so it is great to window shop with no ticking clocks at the back of our minds. The blend is maybe 10% Balinese as street offerings like the one pictured above are still there, actually feels more like being in Australia - which is also a really nice thing. Streets alternated with cool Australian stores (worth highlighting are Seafolly where I got 2 awesome bikinis with my lost-luggage-money and For love and Lemons for really cute lingerie), restaurants, cafés and supper clubs. We did not spend any full days there - only the afternoon of day 1 plus our last dinner in the island - but the time was well worth it.

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21.11.16

Bali - Jimbaran fish market

Jimbaran fish market in Bali, Indonesia

Jimbaran fish market might not the typical tourist spot but is definitely worth checking out.

For many, Jimbaran is a synonym to fresh grilled fish spiced up Balinese style and enjoyed at a table located right on the beach - wet feet included at high tide. Located at the west coast of that narrow stripe in the south of Bali, it is a rather interesting place. Quieter than Kuta or Seminyak, alternating locals with Balinese style resorts (actually we stayed around the area) and the main fish market of the island. The best of staying in Jimbaran are the dining opportunities by the beach. Very similar to the restaurants in Koh Samui, at Jimbaran Beach you can have really fresh grilled fish (e.g. red snapper) together with plenty of staple side dishes and drinks at one of the many warungs for two and pay less than 20 EUR in total.

The beach is not particularly famous but during daytime is considerably less crowded than any of the other and quite clean, so if you also chose to stay in the area, it might be worthwhile spending some time there - we didn't realize until the day we were flying out when we killed time until it was time to go to the airport, hanging around the hotel pool area. There are not many sightseeing opportunities around, other than Jimbaran Fish Market shown in this post.

KLM lost my suitcase, so we went to the place where you could be without a bikini, the fish market. I really like the energy of local places, as they provide an opportunity to snap the real life in the island. It was a bit late, but still there was some activity on the "dried fish" stalls. I was stroke by the beauty of the jukung or traditional Balinese outrigger canoes. This boat is one kind of outrigger canoe that also use the crab claw sail, which was invented by the Polynesians. This type of sail is very special. With a triangular shape, it can produce very large amounts of lift when reaching and its performance is overall superior to any other simple sail plan. That's maybe the reason why they manage to come so far? They had smart engineers to optimize their boats!!!

The bars on the side reminded a lot of the boats we saw in the Polynesian Culture museum of Hawaii Big Island as well as those in Boracay. The magic of the Pacific, in the end... It was all coming from one amazing nomad culture.

We went by walk from our hotel Keraton Jimbaran Beach Resort, but it is located right in the middle of the south, so you can drop by anytime on the way somwhere maybe - try to come before 12PM.



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20.11.16

Bali - Tegenungan Waterfall

Tegenungan waterfall in Bali

Pity we didn't bring our bathing suits as this waterfall would have been the perfect way to end a magical day in Ubud. This magic waterfall marks the end of our day around Bali. One of the things I did not like though, is to discover how retarded the Balinese Hindu are when it comes to the role of women. Banning women on their period out of temples is a subtle way to call us dirty and unworthy, even if the human race can actually survive thanks to those days. Really guys, get over it.



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19.11.16

Bali - Goa Gajah Temple



Even though Goa Gajah translates into Elephant Cave, you won’t find any pachyderms here. 

One theory is that the elephant aspect came from the stone figure inside the cave depicting the Hindu lord Ganesha, characterised by an elephant’s head. Inside, you can also find the three mysterious stones whose meaning I forgot and can't seem to find - maybe they represented heaven, earth & humans? - but they are interesting in their simplicity surrounded by so much carving. The cloth around them is believed to be sacred. The cave’s entrance shows a menacing giant face considered to be an elephant with its wide open mouth as the door, together with some forest and animals motifs. Goa Gajah was built on a hillside, since 2 rivers meet here, the site and its waters are considered sacred, you can see the holy fountains at the entrance as well as our driver washing his hands in this purity.

The complex is open daily 08:00 - 16.00. As with any temple in Bali, women during their periods are forbidden entrance and wearing a sarong and waist sash is a must.



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18.11.16

Bali - Gunung Kawi Temple


Bali ancient temple carved in stone Gunung Kawi

Despite the effort - you have to walk 600m and then 315 stone steps to get there and it ain't easy on that heat - I am extremely thankful to our driver for bringing us to Gunung Kawi, the ancient temple of Bali carved on stone. This was the first temple that felt truly off the beaten track. It was not packed with Chinese tourists on their all-inclusive holiday, so we could explore it in silence, letting the holiness of the spot come into us.

The temple is carved in rock and was built back on the 11th century. Can you imagine how much effort it took? The environment is also amazing as the rice terraces and green palm trees make a beautiful contrast against the dark rock. The only sound you will hear is with that of water trickling along the irrigation channels at the bottom of a valley, combined with some farmers who work on their rice fields on the distance.

The monuments you first see are in relief directly on a solid rock hill. The shape is that of a burial tower, as it seems to honor a king that reigned Bali 1050-1077 but then gave up to become a religious hermit. When you cross the river, there is cloister with 5 cells carved out of rock, where the temple caretakers used to reside. Then, there is a second hermitage that might have served as sleeping spot for visiting pilgrims. In order to get in, you have to remove your shoes.



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17.11.16

Bali - Pura Tirta Empul

Bali Tirta Empul holy spring temple
Tirta Empul means Holy Spring in Balinese. It is a temple founded around a large water spring in 962 AD. When you enter the temple, there is a pond with some Japanese carps. Not so unique... But cross the second gate and the magic starts to happen. The central yard of the temple, Jaba Tengah, contains 2 pools with 30 showers. This is a holy spring where non-hindu are not allowed in. 

When you pass the shower area, there is a second third with super clear waters, where the spring provides fresh water and it is considered to be holy. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu, another Hindu god name for the supreme consciousness Narayana. I was really impressed by the second pool as I had never seen such clear waters in a temple in South East Asia.

Another stop of our day in Ubud.



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16.11.16

Bali - Tegalalang Rice Terraces

Tegalalang rice terraces in Ubud, Bali

While mountainous, Bali is agricultural place where rice is a staple food. Rice requires a lot of water and it is therefore typically grown in rice paddies all over Asia. These are large squares of flooded terrain, that even have their own kanji: 田. But Bali has a lot of mountains and little to no flat terrain, hence the challenge in terms of arable land was overcome by the knowledge passed down by a revered holy man called Rsi Markandeya in the eighth century, who taught them how to make subak or terraces along the mountain. The outlook is something from outer space, wherever you look the only thing you see is the greenery and terraces that spread beyond your eyesight. The walk in the area is quite a cool experience, but remember to bring mosquito repellent, water and waterproof shoes like the TEVAs I typically sport in these occasions. The trail is quite narrow, so it is quite easy to put one foot in the mud (as it happened to me > * <) and get stained. Don't be like one guy we saw, with one sneaker completely muddy and the other completely white, probably bought the day before. Lots of photo opportunities await but make sure to come in a non-rainy day, as this beautiful place turns into a wet mud nightmare quite quickly...

Tegallalang is located 30min away from Ubud and was our third stop of the day, after the Monkey Forest and the flash shopping.



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15.11.16

Bali - Ubud Central Market


Everything gets a bit rushed when you got one day to explore Ubud, so our visit around the city center was minimal. 

Ubud is the place where artisans who inherited their skills from their parents still produce beautiful wood and stone carvings, printed clothing and a million other things you might be interested on bringing back home (such as carved buffalo heads, which look amazing in an industrial living room or restaurant, also very popular in South Africa). We didn't have time for much, so we were dropped for one hour and then picked up around this pretty temple.

3 rules if you are going to shop:
1. Spend some time around the market, familiarizing yourself with the offering.
2. Buy in bulk whenever you can (so you can press more on the price)
3. Remember to bargain (always) - I personally HATE the bargaining game, but it's really needed in these countries

Actually, I bought a lot of things in Seminyak (the posh neighborhood where many Australian stores like Seafolly - which is not cheap but offers awesome bikinis - and For the love and lemons - amazing lingerie - are located) and Kuta (at the main mall, there is a TOPSHOP store, where I got some cool summer looks, CONVERSE store, where Enrique got some leather sneakers, plus all mainstream and local surf clothing brands, combined with lots of Ralph Lauren). Hippy clothing and balinese prints are not really my thing - just brought a robe -  hence, for fashion shopping I would suggest to save your pennies and wait for Seminyak, which won't be super cheap, but well worth it.
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14.11.16

Bali - Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

baby monkey in Bali Monkey Forest

Finally, I found some time to share some of our great experiences in Bali. Despite making all the mistakes a tourist could fall into (e.g. not spending any night in Ubud, visiting traps like "turtle island") we cherish our week there. Bali is one of the most memorable places we've ever been to, #2 after Hawaii's Big Island.

We start our Bali stories from the sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud, which offers the perfect combination of nature, wildlife (read, monkeys) and temples (3 of them to be specific, one with a holy spring to cleanse both body and mind, one major temple to meditate and another with a graveyard, where bodies wait until the mass cremation ceremony which is held every 5 years). Note: We are suckers for macaques and forests hence our extreme appreciation.

Just so we start off right, let's clarify the reason why Bali has become a mecca for yoguis, vegans, surfers and travelers altogether: Hinduism dominates Bali, despite being part of Indonesia (a predominantly muslim country). In fact, Balinese Hinduism resembles more the Hinduism of 2000 years ago, than what we see in India today.

Do you wonder why is Hinduism predominant in Bali? Once upon a time, the Hindu Majaphit empire dominated most of the Indonesian archipelago and had its base in Java (the largest island of Indonesia) around Yogyakarta. The empire was invaded by muslim forces in the 14th-15th century, so the Majapahits took his courtiers, artisans, priests and members of the Royalty and escaped East, ending up in Bali, an island with lots of mountains, quite easy to defend. Bali was a society revolving around agriculture, they were kept outside the Dutch East Indies and the maritime silk road. They just kept growing their rice and keeping their traditions alive.

We visited Monkey Forest as the first step of our Ubud route. It opens 8:30 - 18:00 (last tickets at 17:30). It is advisable for you to NOT bring any food and to keep your belongings packaged, to avoid any bites or thefts. There are about 600 monkeys living in the forest, divided into 5 groups: in front of the main temple, Michelin, eastern, central, and cemeteries. Each group consist of 100 – 120 monkeys containing infants (0 – 1 year), juvenile 1 (1 – 2 years), juvenile 2 (2 – 4 years), sub-adult male (4 – 6 years), adult female (over 4 years), and adult male (over 6 years). The pregnancy lasts 6 months, typically leading to 1 infant that is taken care by the mother during 10 months. While being omnivores - watch out for your sandwich, their main fare is sweet potato, fed by the sanctuary staff in combination with banana, papaya leaf, corn, cucumber, coconut, and other local fruit. They weight up to 8 kg (females up to 6) and live around 15 years (females up to 20).

Monkeys are very amazing creatures to me. As we learnt in Jigokudani, their gestures are extremely human-like, what makes them quite an insightful animal to reflect upon, we are clearly not so far from each other. Definitely a must if you visit Bali.

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30.9.16

Granada - Lío

modern restaurant near Granada Cathedral

No soy de comer mucho, pero sí picotear con un buen vino en un entorno agradable. Lo cual no resulta especialmente sencillo cuando estás explorando una ciudad en un fin de semana, con lo que no da tiempo a planear ni reservar en los top spots de tripadvisor. De ahí que Lío fuera una agradable sorpresa. Probablemente terminamos allí por razones de supervivencia (i.e. frío) pero nos encantó el ambiente y el menú, así como la localización - pegadito a la Catedral.


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29.9.16

Granada - Mirador de San Nicolás



En el corazón del Albayzín, ese barrio de Granada plagado de callejuelas de herencia morisca, se encuentra el Mirador de San Nicolás, un pintoresco balcón desde el que admirar la Alhambra y esa Sierra Nevada que la enmarca. Granada es una ciudad en las que da gusto patear, explorar callejuelas y toparte con tesoros a la vuelta de cada esquina.



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28.9.16

Granada - Boutique Hotel Gar-Anat


Gar-Anat boutique hotel Granada
Gar-Anat se remonta al s.XVII, donde servía como hospital de peregrinos. Pasó a manos de particulares en el s.XIX y se deterioró hasta que se rehabilitó e inauguró como hotel en 2008. A veces es difícil hacer regalos, así que este año por el cumpleaños de Enrique, le regalé un finde en Granada. Las habitaciones tienen diferentes diseños, con muros decorados con poesía. El patio tiene un árbol en el que puedes colgar tus deseos. Un sitio con muy pocas habitaciones pero mucho encanto, en el que pasar un finde inolvidable explorando Granada entre dos.
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27.9.16

Granada - Streets & Tapas

granada tapas

En Granada uno camina mucho. Cosa que naturalmente, genera hambre y trae a la mente el dicho de que el tapeo en Granada es único, porque con cada copa "te regalan una tapa".

Esto no falta a la verdad, pero oculta el hecho de que pagas por un vino bastante más de lo normal y pierdes la libertad a la hora de elegir lo que comes (algo que complica las cosas cuando eres un poco especial - si no comes fritos, como yo). Nosotros seguimos las indicaciones del hotel y la verdad que empezamos bien, con La Platea, que nos gustó bastante. Después terminamos en un sitio de pescado (léase pescaito) que no era muy adecuado para mí y terminamos con un sushi ligeramente overpriced. No fue una experiencia culinaria demasiado memorable, probablemente por faltarnos ese amigo de Granada que sabe por dónde llevarte - esto es una indirecta a todos los locales que conozco.

Aún así, tiene su gracia lo de ir de un lado a otro probando diferentes cosas - quizás un plan más apetecible en Otoño o Primavera que en Enero.
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26.9.16

Granada - Alhambra

Alhambra Granada
Background
Alhambra is certainly one of the most visited and finest compounds in Spain. Beyond the beauty and charm between its walls, one may take a broader look to explore the extent to which it is intertwined with the history of Spain (and the world).

In contrast with other cities in Andalusia, the city of Granada didn't have major significance during the Roman Empire. It wouldn't be until the Moorish domination of Hispania (711-1492) that the city would shine with its own ligth.

In 1228, the ambitious Ibn al-Ahmar established the longest lasting Muslim dynasty on the Iberian peninsula - the Nasrids (Nazarí in Spanish). Cordoba fell to the Catholic Reconquista in 1236, making the Nasrids align themselves with Fernando III of Castile, to establish the Emirate of Granada in 1238. According to some historians, Granada was a tributary state to the Kingdom of Castile since that year. While not officially ruled by Catholic, it provided key connections with the Muslim trade centers (sub-Saharan Africa and the Maghreb) by exporting silk and dried fruits produced in the area. The Nasrids also supplied troops from the Emirate and mercenaries from North Africa for service to Castile. Nothing is ever black or white it seems...

The Nasrids built a citadel atop a hill, with room for palaces, beautiful gardens, residential annexes for the subordinates portraying some of the finest arab art and architecture in the World. The beauty created during the 300 years of Nasrid rule was greatly appreciated by the Catholic Kings, so after the Christian Reconquista in January 2nd 1492, the Alhambra became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella. In fact, it was between these walls where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition. Which would lead to the discovery of America in October 12th 1492.

Visit
Granada is best visited in low season (think of fall or even winter - we went there in January) as the crowds ruin the magic and the heat might become slightly unbeareable. It is highly advised to book the ticket in advance (it is quite convenient to do so through ticketmaster). You will get a printout which is then exchanged by the actual ticket in some souvenir shop in the city center, which is located really close to the place from where you take the bus uphill (TIP: Take bus up, walk down). The visit takes about 3 hours (if I remember correctly we took our time with the pictures and spent from 2PM to 5PM). Needless to say, bring shoes you can walk on - preferably without slippery soles as the stone floor can be slippery. We entered the Nasrid Palaces first, then continue with Alcazaba and finished with Generalife.
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19.9.16

Córdoba top 5



Como os adelantaba en la mini-guía de Málaga, Córdoba es una ciudad genial para pasar el día. 30min de trayecto de AVE te transportan a una ciudad pequeña pero llena de embrujo, sorprendentes construcciones y sabrosos rincones. 

Nosotras fuimos en Mayo, aprovechando la visita de mi amiga (y compañera de trabajo) Negar y os recomendamos elegir un mes en el que no haga tanto calor como en verano. Mayo es especialmente recomendable para visitar Córdoba, por ser el mes en el que se celebran el Festival de Patios Cordobeses así como la Feria de Córdoba. Si no os viene bien, el Otoño sea probablemente la siguiente mejor opción - en el sur el verano se alarga bastante así que mejor evitar los meses con temperaturas extremas para explorar la ciudad. Sin más entretenimiento os dejo con el top 5 de nuestro día en Córdoba.




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9.9.16

Horseding in La Rejertilla

malaga horseriding in cortijo la rejertilla
Pampero and me

Despite being Spanish, like the renowned horses, I had never ridden one. Thanks to Hotel Cerro de Hijar for arranging this first-time experience. They collaborate with Cortijo La Rejertilla, which is as authentic and Andalusian as it gets

The group is small, you simply are assigned a horse, a helmet, given some basic instructions and led around the area during one hour. All in all, a great experience also available for small kids (the 7 y.o. girl was simply carried by the staff, so the parents could enjoy as much as we did). Really cool way to wrap up a weekend in Malaga's mountains.
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8.9.16

Cerro de Hijar


hotel cerro de hijar, tolox

Cuando pasas tanto tiempo separados por motivos laborales, apetece mucho pasar un fin de semana alojado en un lugar remoto, en el que disfrutar de la paz, del SPA entre las montañas y de una cena romántica degustando la cocina local. 

No hicimos demasiadas fotos, porque estábamos muy ocupados aprovechando. Pero aún así, este sitio nos encantó y se merece su propio post. El Hotel Cerro de Hijar es el lugar perfecto donde hacer noche, ya sea tras recorrer el Caminito del Rey, pasar un día en el Pantano del Chorro o simplemente dejarte caer por la zona en busca de un retiro espiritual. Además, son expertos organizando actividades con las que disfrutar de la zona y llevarte una experiencia 360.

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7.9.16

Caminito del Rey


caminito del rey
Once in a lifetime experience

Background
El paisaje que rodea el pueblo de El Chorro parece sacado de un sueño. Un pantano de aguas turquesas, cuevas, paredes de caliza que son el sueño de cualquier escalador y 3km de garganta donde los muros alcanzan 300m de altura y la anchura se reduce hasta los 10m. Este paraje, donde no falta el agua ni las laderas fértiles lleva habitado desde el neolítico. Las cuevas proporcionaban refugio, mientras que el río servía como medio de transporte y conexión entre los diferentes valles. De ahí, los romanos pasarían a dominar la zona - como hicieron con el resto de la península.

La historia del Caminito, empieza a finales del s.XIX. En 1866, se terminó el ferrocarril que unía Málaga con Córdoba. Algo que beneficiaría mucho a poblaciones que estaban aisladas de la actividad económica del país, simplemente por la complejidad de su geografía. Pasaron de subsistir de la agricultura y el pastoreo a tener otro tipo de posibilidades.

A principios del s.XX, se comenzaban a crear las primeras centrales hidroeléctricas en España, como forma de abaratar la generación de electricidad. El salto hidroeléctrico del Chorro se creó en 1903, por el ingeniero Rafael Benjumea - que sería nombrado Conde de Guadalhorce - con el objetivo principal de abastecer a la ciudad de Málaga, pero también pensando en la creación de una prospectiva industria agraria en la comarca. Así se nacionalizó el abastecimiento de electricidad en Málaga, que hasta entonces había sido abastecida por empresas extranjeras (que trabajaban con máquinas de vapor).

La importancia de esta obra fue enorme para su época. Se consiguió un suministro de energía eléctrica mejor y más barato. Los beneficios de la empresa permitieron comprar la empresa de tranvías de Málaga - que era Belga - y financiar la construcción de la gran presa de Guadalhorce, con la que se pusieron en regadío extensos territorios de la comarca. De ahí que Alfonso XIII nombara a Rafael Benjumea, Conde de Guadalhorce. Rafael construyó también un camino de hormigón con una misión funcional, por el que se pudieran desplazar los trabajadores de la central así como para que los residentes de la zona pudieran cruzar de un lado a otro del desfiladero.

En 1921, el rey Alfonso XIII presidió la inauguración de la presa del Conde del Guadalhorce, cruzando para ello el camino previamente construido. De ahí le viene el nombre, Caminito del Rey.
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5.9.16

Düsseldorf - Three musts

Düsseldorf walk

In addition to the Old Town, Düsseldorf has some unexpected spots which are worth exploring:
  • The Japanese Garden: In addition to the Japanese neighbourhood - mostly the street where Hotel Nikko is located - this is a pleasant little garden that surrounds the Japanese culture center.
  • Kirmes am Rhein: Drawing more than 4 million visitors annually, this fair is the largest in the Rhein-Ruhr region and one of the largest in Germany (Oktoberfest in Munich is 6.7M).
  • Medienhafen: The newest area of the city starts in the Rhine tower and is filled with cool buildings from renowned architects like Frank Gehry.




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2.9.16

Düsseldorf weekend

Düsseldorf altsadt

Düsseldorf se ha convertido en residencia de Enrique durante los meses de verano. Hay quien dice tener envidia sana de mi vida, quizás porque en esta década estamos muy centrados en mostrar únicamente el lado vibrante (tras un buen filtro, ofc) de nuestras experiencias. No voy a negar que viajar sea lo que más llena en el mundo y que como mi madre, tengo algo de ermitaña. Puedo pasar horas (días) sin hablar con nadie, centrada en mis cosas o explorando un nuevo lugar, sin sentirme aburrida ni desolada.

Esto ayuda, pero aún así. No es fácil pasar 8 meses (de los últimos 12) sola en casa. Siempre hay malos días, problemas, que son mucho más fáciles de conllevar cuando alguien los comparte contigo. Pero bueno. Ya que no elegimos lo que nos toca vivir, tenemos un poco de margen a la hora de decidir cómo reaccionar. Así que trato de explotar el lado positivo de mi condición de "esposa de marino mercante" y en los momentos bajos, he aprendido a apoyarme en los que siguen cerca. Ésta es una nueva lección que me llevo tras este tiempo en España. Las relaciones de amistad y familia que no tenía tan cerca en el extranjero, son apoyos consistentes e importantes, a fomentar en paralelo al mundo en pareja. Depositar toda tu energía positiva (y negativa, cuando aparece) en una sola persona no es bueno a largo plazo, ya que hay mucho riesgo de que se convierta en un single point of failure (como decimos en ingeniería). Dicho esto, volvamos a Düsseldorf

Düsseldorf es una ciudad mediana pero completa, cómoda pero cosmopolita, organizada pero divertida. Situada en el corazón del Rhein-Ruhr, una colección de ciudades altamente industrializadas situadas en la ribera del Rhin. De hecho el Rhein-Ruhr es la única metrópolis en Alemania. En total tiene más de 11 millones de habitantes, distribuidos de manera policéntrica en 3 áreas principales:
- Ruhr (Dortmund, Essen, Duisburg, Bochum, Gelsenkirchen, Oberhausen)
- Düsseldorf (Düsseldorf, Neuss, Mönchengladbach, Wuppertal)
- Köln-Bonn (Cologne, Bonn, Leverkusen)

Debido al Rhin, que cruza Alemania y es navegable desde Basel hasta Holanda, esta región ha tenido una gran importancia desde la Edad Media, en la que estas ciudades eran importantes centros comerciales. Hoy en día, produce el 15% del GDP Alemán.

Düsseldorf, con sus carriles bici, sus puentes, su Altstadt (ciudad antigua), sus edificios de ladrillo - cuya arquitectura gótica de ladrillo influenció notablemente a sus vecinos del Norte dado que todos carecían de la piedra como materia prima para construir - me trajo mucha paz, quizás por los buenos recuerdos y nostalgia que siento acerca de mi vida en Estocolmo. Quizás el clima del Norte de Europa no sea tan vibrante como el del Sur, pero algunos encontramos la felicidad en una sociedad donde las cosas funcionan, las familias reciben apoyo, los impuestos se invierten en el bienestar y el equilibrio entre vida/trabajo se practica como máxima.

Como curiosidad, esta ciudad tenía ya en 1985 la comunidad más grande de Japoneses fuera de Japón en el Mundo. Esto empezó cuando las empresas Japonesas se asentaron en Alemania al terminar la Segunda Guerra Mundial y descubrieron el potencial del Rhein-Ruhr que facilitaba mucho los aspectos logísticos de la producción. Explorar el barrio Japonés es un placer, con tiendas en las que encontrar las cosas que no puedes comprar en casi ninguna tienda española y restaurantes en los que los platos más típicos (ramen, gyoza, yakitori) saben como en el lejano oriente.

Si te animas a visitar la zona, te recomendaría planear visitar varias ciudades. Son pequeñitas y las ves en un par de días sin stress. Todas ellas están conectadas por tren (Deustche Bahn) así que resulta muy sencillo (aunque no siempre barato) ir de una a otra, como hicimos nosotros para asistir a los conciertos de Rihanna y Beyoncé en días consecutivos - happy coincidence - en Köln y Frankfurt. Alquilar un coche para explorar la zona es más económico y divertido, ya que algunas carreteras alemanas no tienen límite de velocidad - te guste correr o no, es un espectáculo tener a un Ferrari acelerando a muerte en el carril contiguo.

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31.8.16

Beijing fashion shopping - Sanlitun「 三里屯」

Being fashion shopping in Sanlitun
Given that I only had one day off this time and I had covered all the main sights during my first visit to Beijing back in 2010 - 6 years already! - I decided to explore the things I never got to see, the contemporary side of the city. 798 Art Zone is the absolute top of the list, but I always find it nice to end the first day exploring the shopping areas. Just like supermarkets, all malls are almost the same but each place has its own special treats (anyone remember the boats in Singapore?) and I am quite keen to check this out.

Sanlitun is a popular area among expats where the nightlife feels a lot like Roppongi (Tokyo) or Lan Kwai Fong (Hong Kong). However, I captured the area during daytime, focusing on:
- The Place: A mall with the largest outdoor LED screen I ever seen (250 x 30 meter)
- TaiKoo Li Sanlitun: Hosting cool stores and restaurants, the largest ADIDAS store on Earth.

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29.8.16

Beijing - 798 Art Zone「798艺术区」

798 Art Zone, Beijing

When visiting Beijing during Spring, my friend Chris who was born and raised there, advised to check out 798 Art Zone. Also known as Dashanzi Art District, it was walking distance from Crowne Plaza Lido (my home for the week) and visible and citymaps2go - a must when you don't have data, don't speak Chinese and plan to explore a city in a country where Google is not exactly welcome. This communist factory environment (industrial interiors but for real) which was built 50 years ago, turned into an avant garde neighborhood is the ultimate plan for a weekend morning exploring an unexpected side of Beijing.

This post is a bit of a photobomb, but it captures how I felt exploring the area. Amazed by the creativity and the size of this industrial dream. There are 3 main areas I found, took about 3 hours to explore including some souvenir shopping - really cheap and cool stuff:
  1. Public Service Center for Beijing 798 Art Zone (southernmost, featuring a Tibetan Art center)
  2. 798 Art District (street installations, shops, galleries and Bauhaus-inspired arcs and windows)
  3. 751D Park (from Ace Cafe, the area from the station through the buildings with many pipes)



Background

The Dashanzi factory complex began as an extension of the "Socialist Unification Plan" of military-industrial cooperation between the Soviet Union and the People's Republic of China. By 1951, 156 "joint factory" projects had been realized under that agreement, part of the Chinese government's first Five-Year Plan. However the People's Liberation Army still needed modern electronic components, which were produced in only two of the joint factories. Since the Russians were unwilling to undertake an additional project, they suggested the Chinese to turn to East Germany, a big producer of electronics at the time. The project was green-lighted in early 1952 and a Chinese preparatory group was sent to East Berlin to prepare design plans. This project was the largest by East Germany in China, was green-lighted in 1952. Officially named Joint Factory 718, it followed the Chinese government's method of naming military factories starting with the number 7.

The architecture was influenced by the Germans, who chose a functional Bauhaus-influenced design. The plans, where form follows function, called for large indoor spaces designed to let the maximum amount of natural light into the workplace. Arch-supported sections of the ceiling would curve upwards then fall diagonally along the high slanted banks or windows; this pattern would be repeated several times in the larger rooms, giving the roof its characteristic sawtooth-like appearance. Despite Beijing's northern location, all windows face north as the light from that direction would cast fewer shadows.
798 Art Zone, Beijing

The chosen location was a 640,000 square metre area in Dashanzi, then a low-lying patch of farmland northeast of Beijing. The complex was to occupy 500,000 square metres, more than half dedicated to living quarters. Fully funded by the Chinese, the initial budget was 22MUSD, which is a lot of money today, but even more so in the 1950s.

The equipment was transported directly through the Soviet Union via the Trans-Siberian railway, and a 15 km track of railroad from Beijing Railway Station to Dongjiao Station, purpose built to service the Joint Factory 718 began production in 1957, amid a grandiose opening ceremony and display of Communist brotherhood between China and East Germany, attended by high officials of both countries. It would be fully functional until the early 1990s, when deprived of goverment support like many state-owned enterprise, it simply declined until it became obsolete. The remains of the management were reconstituted as a real-estate operation called "Seven-Star Huadian Science and Technology Group", charged with overseeing the industrial park and finding tenants for the abandoned buildings.

The Dashanzi factory complex was vacated when most of Beijing's contemporary artist community was looking for a new home. Avant-garde art being frowned upon by the government, the community had traditionally existed on the fringes of the city. In 1995, Beijing's Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA), looking for cheap, ample workshop space away from downtown, set up in the now defunct Factory 706. Through word-of-mouth, artists and designers started trickling in, attracted to the vast cathedral-like spaces. Despite the lack of any conscious aesthetic in the Bauhaus-inspired style, which grounded architectural beauty in practical, industrial function, the swooping arcs and soaring chimneys had an uplifting effect on modern eyes, a sort of post-industrial chic. At the artists' requests, workers renovating the spaces preserved the prominent Maoist slogans on the arches, adding a touch of ironic "Mao kitsch" to the place.

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14.7.16

Weekend in Malaga

traditional flamenco couple postcard

Pese a que lleve dos semanas de lado a lado, le dejo a nuestra asidua lectora unos pocos consejos sobre cómo pasar un finde agradable en Málaga.

DAY 1
Explorar la zona del centro, incluyendo el Mercado de Atarazanas, la Alcazaba, la Catedral y la Calle Larios es lo más básico. De ahí solemos llevar a la gente a explorar la zona del Muelle Uno - donde encontrarás tiendas abiertas hasta los Domingos (te recomiendo ETXART & PANNO). Para comer, solemos llevar a la gente por la zona de Pedregalejo (puedes caminar hasta allí pero es un paseo majo o simplemente parar un taxi por detrás de la Malagueta) donde nuestros preferidos son El Balneario, Pez Tomillo y Cattabia.

Después de comer puedes relajarte en la playa o tomar un gin&tonic en uno de los mil bares de Pedregalejo. Si caminas un poco más hacia el este, verás que el camino continúa por la zona de El Palo, una de las más cañís en Málaga. Para volver al centro, o coges otro taxi o te vuelves en el bus 3 o el 11 (con google maps puedes encontrar la parada más cercana).

Para cenar por el centro, nos gusta mucho La Barra (cocina de mercado), KGB (tapeo chic), Lechuga (ensaladas enormes y tapas deliciosas) y Lemoon (fusión con estilo).

DAY 2
Ahora que es verano, siempre apetece un poco de playa. Si alquilas coche y estás varios días, te recomiendo muchísimo Tarifa. Una tarde en la Playa de Bolonia (o en Palmones si hace mucho viento) seguida de un mojito en el Volare y una cena por las callejuelas del centro es un plan insuperable. Hasta a Byakko le encanta!!!

Si te quieres quedar por la zona de Málaga y vas con coche, Los Álamos está bastante bien para aparcar, tiene chiringuitos donde comer las cosas típicas (espeto, ensalada, paella) y si vas en Sábado tiene el plus de estar al lado de Plaza Mayor (un outlet) donde puedes pasar las últimas horas del día. Para cenar, puedes probar algún sitio del centro que te he mencionado ya, para las copas de después te recomiendo un rooftop bar. Normalmente solemos ir al del hotel Málaga Palacio, al del hotel Molina Larios (frente al AC Málaga Palacio), al de la calle alcazabilla 12 o al del Oasis Hostel. La gente en Málaga va mucho al botellón que se monta en la Plaza Mitjana y aunque sea digno de ver una vez, he de reconocer que me divierte mucho más bailar en Toulouse Club.

DAY 3
Puedes explorar las playas de Málaga Este, como la playa de Maro (aunque es un agobio el tema aparcamiento, yo sólo por la comodidad me quedo con los Álamos o las de Tarifa) y luego dar un paseo por Frigiliana al caer la tarde - se ve en una o dos horas, contando que te tomes algo en el bar del mirador, pero es una experiencia inolvidable.

DAY 4
Si no has estado, me cogería un AVE a Córdoba - aún no he tenido tiempo de subir todas las fotos que tengo ni de Córdoba, ni de Granada, ni de Bali, pero en eso estoy - tardas una hora en llegar, es comodísimo y te permite ver sitios maravillosos como la Mezquita-Catedral, el puente, los patios... Fuí con mis amigas-compañerasdetrabajo en Mayo y la verdad que salimos super encantadas (hasta diría que me gustó más que Granada). Se puede caminar 20 min desde la estación de tren hasta el centro y te garantizo un día super agradable.



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1.6.16

Boracay「ボラカイ」: Backstreets

Boracay backstreets
Ricas o pobres, las niñas filipinas también pierden la cabeza con Frozen. 

Quizás no sean las fotos perfectas de arena blanca y aguas turquesa, pero capturan el lado más interesante de Boracay: el de la realidad.
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30.5.16

Boracay「ボラカイ」: Isla Kitesurfing

Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay

My recommendation is that you spend some days in Boracay if and only if you are into kitesurfing. Either you know already or you are interesting on taking a course. Bulabog Beach on the East Coast of Boracay is, together with Bonaire, an excellent place for beginners. The water is very flat, wind is stable and onshore. The only problem are the sea urchins, but provided you got some good booties with rubber sole, you're good.

There are many nice hotels along the beach, We stayed one week at Isla Kitersurfing,  all I can provide is good feedback. The hotel is nicely equipped with big rooms, featuring WiFi, aircon and hot water. For pro-kiters, space to store the material is available as well as ropes to dry the neoprene suit, which come in handy for everyone. Kitchen opens early, to suit us taking classes at 8AM and the menu has some foreigner friendly yet yummy breakfasts (think of salmon scramble, müsli, avo toast...) at great value. The environment is peaceful, so you can sleep tight at night. 

The only thing to keep in mind is the wind, which will be constantly blowing on your face and the sea, which will flood the beach you need to walk through in order to get to the restaurants on the other side of the island i.e. havaianas are really the ONLY option to wear for dinner.

Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay

As the pictures show, this beach is not for swimming or and walking should be considered risky business in the days with good wind - there are kites coming up and down all the time and the ropes can cut you - but is really peaceful environment to disconnect during your holiday and devote time to learn this thrilling yet challenging sport.

Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay
Isla Kitesurfing, a lodge for kiters in Bulabog Beach Boracay

Isla Kitesurfing [WEB]

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