31.10.11
United Arrows
31.10.11
Daikanyama.
30.10.11
Seoul
Sometimes life is like that, things always happen with worst timing and well, not everything can be perfect at a time. Some little bit is fucked up and reality, hits your back.
After some great days in Shanghai, of hard work and great fun, I was more than ready to come home. Get a big hug and celebrate, with the one. It all was as I expected - or even better, with that tiny teddy bear in my pillow or some sallad ready for me to munch - until he texted me back:
- Korea, 2 weeks, leaving on Sunday.
GR-EAT. We had vacation on Thursday and we would move to "the flat" on Friday, not to mention Vogue's FNO next Saturday. So now, I'm all on my own, to get all that done. Pack the stuff he left behind and carry, with the helpnof Wada-san. Furniture coming and all those little details (like hangers, sheets or tablecloth) that one usually misses to prepare in advance.
But it will be allright baby. I'm no bullshit and rather grown up. You know I can handle that, as much as I know, that you'll fix the stuff and come back, with a big smile, after trying the world's best bibimbap! Remember that no pain no gain, think that the limit is the sky. I know. You can.
Love from the Queen Bed, empty as never before, and good night.
30.10.11
Hairdryer Wars.
30.10.11
29.10.11
29.10.11
Shanghai Snapshots
De regateo.
People's Square
Neverending stores
Skyline, from The Bund.
He pasado la semana en Shanghai. El comienzo del viaje fue bastante dramático - incluyendo cancelación de vuelo y alojamiento en hotel de mala muerte, previo madrugón 4AM y enganchamiento a trabajar directo - pero todo terminó infinitas veces mejor, al llegar a casa con un Hervé Lèger en la maleta y ser recibida por el osito más dulce, recostado en mi almohada.
Mamá me ha comentado que van a dar un programa en el que las famosas hablan de sus ciudades glamourosas. Resulta que una ilustre, ha elegido Shanghai. No puedo entender donde está el glamour de una sociedad con tantas dieferencias, donde un white collar employee gana treinta veces más que un camarero, donde el agua no es potable y los huevos falsos, una realidad. Donde la libertad de expresión es una falacia, donde facebook, twitter y hasta "El País" están capados por el gobierno y a la gente que protesta, se le envian sicarios a casa, explicando que como continúen en esa dirección, no acabarán bien.
Shanghai, representa el futuro de China. Es deslumbrante contemplar sus brillantes rascacielos o cenar en el piso 91 del World Financial Center, pero aún así, me queda la duda y el dolor, de esa nación que pronto poseerá el mundo, fundamentada en principios dictatoriales, tan incomprensibles como su escriura simbólica.
23.10.11
Nailing Tokyo.
20.10.11
Alchemy, kudasai
20.10.11
About 5 years ago...
19.10.11
Japan, that strange country.
Found by chance, quite interesting summary... What do you think?
19.10.11
Run Tokyo, run!
17.10.11
Japón y el matrimonio.
Un compañero de trabajo hizo un chiste el otro día, acerca de Tokyo siendo la ciudad con las amas de casa mejor educadas del mundo. Sinceramente, me dio bastante que pensar y causó curiosidad. Así que esto es lo que he podido encontrar para justificar la falta de mujeres, cada mañana en la Ginza Line. Va a petar pero el ratio hombre mujer es de 20:1, sin exagerar.
Marriage in Japan and in the West
One word, two concepts
A lot has been written on this subject. Here is a temptative summary of what I've learned from my social interactions in Japan. I've also talked with some Korean friends and it seems that Korean and Japanese ways of thinking are very similar regarding the following matter. It also appears that Westerners, whatever the country, from Europe to America or Australia have comparable opinions on these issues.
Needless to say that this is a personal (thus subjective) point of view, based on my experience and knowledge only, and concentrate on the most common attitude encountered in the people of each country, and exceptions are numerous.
Reason for marriage
West: Love => people promise to love each other for ever when they get married (even if it's often a dream). Modern laws make it the same to get children outside marriage, so that if people only want children, marriage is not even necessary. Marriage is usually a proof of love and commitment for life. If love disappears, people tend to divorce easily (except sometimes when there are small children, to avoid perturbing them psychologically).
Japan: Children => with or without love is not very important. Lots of marriage are still arranged ("miai") and some Japanese think that it's better than love marriage because loveless arranged marriage rarely end up in divorce as the purpose is to have and raise children, and for the woman often to quit working and care about the household. Japanese men often look down on women at work, but are usually ready to ask them to stay at home and pay for their expenses, even if their salary is tight. As the father of a child born outside marriage is not legally recognised, the marriage rate of parents is close to 100%.
Japanese family relationships
Even in love marriages, once a woman has a baby, her husband regards her as a mother, not a woman anymore, which means their sexual life comes to an end. The new mother is said to lose completely interest in her husband anyway (this may not be true in international couples, from what I have heard). p>In most families, children sleep with both parents or just the mother. The the latter case, the father has his own room. I've been told that this way he wouldn't wake his wife and children up when he comes back late from work.
Sleeping with the child(ren) in the middle of the parents is so common in Japan that Japanese and a special name for it, a comparison it to the kanji (kawa = river). Children might sleep with their parents till the age of 3, 5, 8, 12 or even 16, depending on the family, number of children and space in the house.
Western reaction to children sleeping with parents
Westerners find for the least surprising that children sleep everyday with their parents (especially till age of 12 or later). They should not forget that on top of this it is normal in Japan for a father to have a bath with his children, even 20 year-old girls! I guess that if the average Japanese man loses interest in his wife once she becomes a mother, there is no problem with children either.
I have heard a lot that Westerners would be afraid of crushing their new-born baby by sleeping in the same bed, but I was told that it never happened (of all mammals, only male sealions and pandas sometime crush their babies to death when sleeping with them, but never humans would it seem). The good point of the mother sleeping with the baby is that the baby doesn't cry because it feels secure near its mother and has a unexhaustible warm-milk bottle at its disposal. I have read that it was better for babies to be breastfed than drink other milk. That system definitely has its advantages.
Another concern is that the parents lose their privacy and cannot have sex anymore - unless doing it in front of the child, which is a kind of taboo in the Judeo-Christian mindset. As Japanese parents stop having sex regularly after their children are born, that is not a problem.
For international couples who do continue, I was told little babies can sleep very well even with the parents doing whatever they please right beside them. But they should have their own room from age 3 or 4 then.
Finally, lots of Westerners think it might cause psychological problems to the children to sleep with their parents. But Japanese do it and seem to be alright with it. The only drawback I can think of is the independence factor. Japanese are very group-minded and usually have difficulty thinking by themselves. It may be related.
Why do Japanese women stop working when they get married or pregnant?
1. It's in the culture like that. They usually want to. Most Westerners think they are forced to quit, but they often resigned from their own will (or from what society has inculcated them). Japanese men also prefer that their wife stay at home once married. Women almost always want to spend as much time as they can with their babies (remember J-girls like what is "kawaii" ? The connection is evident).
2. Nursery schools are few and very expensive in Japan (I have heard about 200.000 yen/month). It make more sense for the mother to stay at home than work and pay almost all her salary for the nursery. In most Western countries, nurseries and kindergartens are free, which allows lots of mothers to work.
3. Paternity leaves don't exist in Japan, and (paid) maternity leave are not encouraged.
Japanese relation to sex
There is a kind a tacit understanding between spouse that after 10 years of marriage (loveless anyway) and a few children, the man is free to satisfy his libido somewhere else. That is why the sex industry is so prosperous in Japan.
Male literature in combini (convenience stores) is 90% porn and everyone reads it openly (and shamelessly) anywhere. Even serious newspapers have their "pink pages". This is just beyond belief for Westerners first visiting Japan.
Japanese men who miss talking to young and cute girls (or not so young and not so cute, depending on the price and place) go to hostess bars or "snack" after work. Nothing much happens there except dirty talk. Those who want to go more carnal have the soaplands and massage parlours, but Asian men's testosterone level is reputedly lower than Caucasian or African men, so they are often satisfied with just talking, watching - and groping...
There is also the infamous "enjo kosai" or teenage prostitution. I'd like to say that for lots of Japanese (or East Asian) women, this isn't even considered as prostitution. Many find it normal to have sex with a man that pays them whatever they want. Remember that marriage is not much more than a man giving almost all his salary to a woman to make children and take care of them. It surely sounds utterly shocking to lots of you, but after talking to (female) Japanese and other Asian friends I know quite well, they don't even see it as abnormal. It's in the mores, that's all. That does not mean Japanese women cheat more, but lots of them certainly consider money as more important than love or sex (which I find very saddening).
Behind this, I have realised that cuteness (the kawaii factor) is very powerful in Japanese women's mentality. They like babies, cute anime characters and cute clothes more than anything else, it seems. Men have an obsessive care about their job and status. My impression is that this stereotype works as well for Korea and China, if not also South-East Asia.
Divorce and charge of the children
In 95% of cases in Japan, the woman gets the exclusive charge of the children. It only seems natural as the father often don't really care about them. He comes back late from work and rarely take part in their education. After a divorce, it's not normal for the father to just forget about his offsprings. He doesn't care very much. That's the mother's role to care for them.
That might sound crude again to some Westerners, as in the West parents sometimes fight bitterly over the charge of their children, and in peaceful cases, it's usual to find arrangement such as the children stay one week with the mother, next week with the father, or, weekdays at the mother's and weekends at the father's. Anyway, lots of fathers would feel terrible not to see their children regularly (see the thread about children abduction in this regard).
[REF]
17.10.11
Yebisu?
16.10.11
Aoyama Dori
15.10.11
Alien
En Japón, cuando te registras en la oficina de inmigración te dan un certificado que se llama "alien registration". Es bastante curioso que te califiquen de alien. Si bien algo más alto y menos achinado, sigues siendo del mismo mundo. O al menos, eso crees al llegar.
Las mujeres en Tokyo van siempre muy arregladas. En la ciudad, cuando llueve, llueve de verdad. La temperatura no baja de 20C. Mis pies, son extremadamente delicados. Si me pongo sandalias, resbalo en la humedad. Si me pomgo zapatillas de goreTex, acabo con ampollas además de parecer la gitana mayor de la ciudad. Así que, aprovechando nuestro paseo por Ginza, he dedicado la tarde a estudiar las opciones que ofrecen los diseñadores internacionales en Matsuya, un centro multimarca que sería el sueño de cualquiera... Que no tenga unos pies enormes como los míos! Ojo, que no soy tan alarmante. Calzo un 39-40, algo más que normal, no? Excepto en este país, donde el 38 marca punto y final.
Así que tras sostener preciosos MJ y embutir mi pie en unos Tory Burch - todos ellos costaban el doble de lo que pagarías en Paris o Milan - he dirigido mis pasos a la última esperanza (ZARA) donde quedaban bailarinas del 39-40, que POR FIN me he podido pillar. Eso sí, pagando casi 11000 YEN por algo que en España sale a menos de 50€! Un robo. Y a la vez, una bendición.
En fin, que al menos estoy contenta, porque creo que voy a ahorrar mucho en el tiempo que esté aquí. De bolsos voy bien servida y en los zapatos, no me entra el pie. Las prendas me resultan o demasiado ñoñas o demasiado clásicas, así que sin Acnes donde babear, me dedicaré a guardar como la cigarra, por lo que pueda pasar.
Son casi las 12, así que en breve apagaré la luz. Mañana otro día será. De momento, me quedo pensando en ese verano tan maravilloso que pasamos en nuestra Zgz natal. La ciudad anda de fiestas, pero yo me quedo con el calorazo estival, la terraza de mis suegros y el cariño de mamá. Cuanto más me alejo, más aprecio lo que es entender una cultura, pertenecer a un entorno y no precisar de traductor, allá donde vas. Disfrutad EL PILAR!!!
13.10.11
Hiragana, katakana & romaji
12.10.11
Flushing sound: ON
Nuestra despedida de solteros conjunta en Riche - 2011/09/21
Siempre me gustó viajar. Como me decía mi querida Nati, en la poesía que escribió como el más maravilloso regalo de boda, tenía ganas de aprender para echar a volar. Eso creía yo, al menos.
Hoy ha sido uno de esos días. En los que me doy cuenta que no soy como creía y que quizás, haya mucho Paco Martinez Soria en mi persona. Por aquello de que la ciudad no parece ser para mí.
Sí. Dejé mucho en España. Pero también podía retornar a ello fácilmente, con un finde laro a golpe de Ryanair. Me las apañé para rehacer mi vida en Estocolmo, para unirme a personas especiales, sentirme querida en el trabajo y fuera de él, así como integrarme en la sociedad a través del idioma. No fue fácil. Siiempre te queda un punto de alienamiento, pero allí estaba. Dando vueltas por el mundo y retornando con miles de regalos chanantes para Enrique a nuestro blanco hogar.
Pensé, que sería fácil. Subestimé la dureza de no entender ni un puñetero menú, de vivir en otra franja horaria y de empezar desde cero, cuando empezaba a controlar algo en el trabajo. Creí que el Viber sería suficiente para comunicarme con los seres queridos y que la experiencia compensaría con creces todo lo demás. Si bien, objetivamente reconozco lo afortunada que soy por tener esta oportunidad; subjetivamente la cosa cambia y se me caen las lágrimas, mientras pulso el botoncito del retrete.
Mejor es que se oiga sonido de agua corriendo, en lugar de mi lamentable sollozar.
Supongo que me terminaré por calmar, me adaptaré y antes de ser consciente, estaré pelada de frío en mi querido Södermalm. Esta aventura quedará atrás. Aún así, no quiero hacer como mi padre y sentarme a ver la vida pasar. Sino aprovechar cada segundo que tengo en esta impresionante ciudad. Aún así, hay algo positivo en el pesar. Precisamente el ser consciente del valor que para mí tiene lo que quedó atrás. Toda esa gente tan especial, que hacían de mi vida sueca algo que añorar. Así al menos, tengo la certeza de que volveré a una elección personal.
12.10.11
Fish Grill
12.10.11
Red Leaves
...tones of love.
Aunque todavía haga calor en la ciudad, las hojas comienzan a ponerse rojicas, como le gusta a mamá. No puedo evitar recordar la semana del Pilar, cuando Enrique abandonó Estocolmo, para irse a escalar. Ryanair me dejó de regalo, a mi querida mamá. Así bajo el sol, dimos la bienvenida al otoño, fuimos a la Ópera y a perejilear, como suele ser normal.
Hace un año de todo aquello y sin caer en la melancolía, no puedo evitar añorarlo, cada vez un poco más. El tiempo pasa, los sentimientos siguen igual. Aunque sea una persona adulta, siempre te echaré de menos mamá. Así que gracias por todos los momentos felices que me has dado (y por los que están por llegar).
Te quiero. Pasa un feliz día del Pilar.