2.5.18

Melbourne - Snapshots

Melbourne walk snapshots
Docklands, view from the after-work Friday drinks behind our office.

Fall is my favourite season. Having the chance to leave the heat behind and spend a fall weekend in Melbourne was an unexpected yet very welcome opportunity. As I walked out of the hotel the first night, the air felt clean and fresh, the streets were quiet because "at that time of the night, kitchen is closed" as a restaurant owner told me - it was 9.30PM, for the record.


Despite the tight timing - weekdays full-day locked in office 8-19, I managed to see quite a lot but, more importantly, to recover a bit the joy of travel by walking the city, a passion I discovered in Stockholm.  Here in Bangkok is not so easy to take really long walks - as you can easily do in Stockholm or Tokyo, neither it is in Malaga. The less you do something, the more you miss it. 


I find a tremendous joy on observing one neighbourhood morph into another, as you move along the veins of the big metropolis, step by step. Enrique's pictures do a better job than mine when it comes to capturing the awe of finding beauty hidden behind unexpected corners, that you would otherwise miss if moving faster.

My route was somewhat random, but I walked around the city center, exploring both street-art and arcades, all the way to Carlton where I stopped for dinner in the Italian (Lygon) street, at the highly rated Tiamo.

View Post

1.5.18

Melbourne - Arcades and Laneways

Melbourne arcades
Tangerine motorbike in front of tangerine shop.

Central Melbourne is a warren of 19th-century arcades and cobbled bluestone laneways that feature amazing street art, basement restaurants, teeny tiny boutiques and bars. The lanes capture edgy chic and balance the 19th-century sophistication of the arcades, remainder of the Marvelous Melbourne days during the gold-rush boom years.

Follow the map at the end to check these out - I dare you to not buy anything! - I came back with some glass figures and a vintage Chanel brooch for mummy.
View Post

30.4.18

Melbourne - Street art

Melbourne streetart lanes
Nothing screams Melbourne as loud as colorful street art in approved locations.

Find a complete map of street art locations in Melbourne available here for download.

During the few days exploring the city, I started to wonder about the roots of the movement, which seem to relate to the visit of Keith Haring to Australia. Back in Q1 1984, he spent nearly a month in Australian shores undertaking a series of public works in town. Already an international art superstar and central to the New York art scene at the time, he accepted the invite from John Buckley, inaugural director of the Australian Centre for Contemporary Art (ACCA).

The main remainder of this visit is the Keith Haring mural in Collingwood - the cool hood where we went for stand-up comedy, dinner and drinks on Friday night - but somehow its influence spread well beyond into many other walls in the city, leading to those colourful surprises which are found around the central area.

Hosier Lane may be the most famous (and crowded one) but there are plenty of pieces to admire, in the parallel streets to AC / DC Lane as well as in many other places in town - first picture is from Docklands area, as an example. There's something I love about street art. Maybe because of growing up in a hood where Graffiti was part of the culture or because of my admiration for Banksy, street art is so refreshing to me. In terms of scale, palette and social criticism, it remains the ultimate freedom of expression, as one can also note in Berlin, a city that suffered censorship but now thrives with a huge sense of individualism and expression.

View Post

27.4.18

Melbourne - Brunch at Trunk

Melbourne brunch at Trunk

For a big fan of big breakfast, brunch is the perfect moment to meet friends over food. As time goes by, friends settle and get kids, it's also a good moment for them to socialize since nocturnal gatherings are not so appropriate for a 3 year old - regardless of how awake or sharp she happens to be. This is how I ended up with my good old Aussie friends from Japan and their lovely daughter at Trunk, a Melbourne brunch institution easily reachable by free tram (get off at Exhibition - La Trobe street).

In a relaxed-no-fuss atmosphere, we updated each other about the last 4 years. Amazing conversation over great coffee and food. Circumstances change but people stay the same. We talked about happiness, about balance, about change, about ash****s. As nostalgia takes over when meeting friends from the past it is important to turn it around. Time will not tick back, but we can leverage the memories as base to reach onto the next stage in our life.

I find it quite inspiring to see that three good friends of mine - my heroes - got daughters. This somehow turned them into stronger change drivers than they already were, maybe because they are now fighting not only for themselves, but to give their daughters a chance to grow in a better society than what we were brought up into. They do not get tangled on this women-compete-with-each-other-kind-of-bullshit that drags us all down collectively. Something I've been reflecting a lot recently... There have been some experiences - quite saddening, in which some female colleagues have treated me very differently than they would ever dare to speak to anyone else in my team - the rest is all men, for the record. Still, as my Aussie friend put it, women who think they should compete with each other don't have the right mindset to be in my team - if you ask me, they do not have the right mindset to be alive these days when more than ever, we shall stick together and fight for change.

For more interesting talks, great coffee and eggs - Wiz Kale Leaf-a pictured below,  drop by Trunk. During warmer days and evenings, there is an outdoor beer garden and al-fresco dining in the space  surrounding the instagrammeable sinagogue, a restored brick building from the 1850s.
View Post

26.4.18

Melbourne - Street signs

Melbourne street signs

During the week I noted a major emphasis on the street number, whenever I heard people talking about meeting in one place or another. After spending the weekend exploring town, it became quite obvious that given the length of the main streets... Numbers matter a lot. Hence, they put them really really big, to make sure you don't miss it.

Similarly, Australian street signs are quite hilarious to me. Not sure if it is the wording or the mix between pictures and words... But they are quite remarkable, don't you think? Of course in the outskirts, you get to see the classic kangaroo or the watch out for crocodiles one. Even in the city, it is quite fun.

I did a bit of research. It seems that road signs in Australia are regulated by each state's government, so I guess each state has a bit of freedom within the common framework, leading to interesting combinations, some of which are featured below - do you also find them weird? Are these like in your country?
View Post

25.4.18

Melbourne - Innocent bystander winery

innocent bystander winery in Melbourne
Can't say I am a foodie... But definitely a red winey.

Lunch at Innocent Bystander aka the coolest winery in Healesville seemed the perfect way to complement the naturist morning at the animal sanctuary. Bar seats on a cool industrial environment while the rain was pouring on the outside sounded like a plan. Innocent Bystander is highly advisable, great bang for the back and excellent options: an entire range of local reds, whites and rosées paired with share boards, paella or freshly baked pizza, always from scratch using local Yarra Valley ingredients.
View Post

24.4.18

Melbourne - Healesville Sanctuary

healesville sanctuary

I have been fascinated by Australian fauna since our first trip to the remote yet huge continent island 7 years ago. Having a great colleague taking us to visit Healesville Sanctuary was an amazing way to spend a chilly Saturday. Started in the 1920s, this is a natural zoo set on a bushland environment, that has a long story of conservation being one of the two places that has successfully bred a platypus.

To get there, we took a train from Southern Cross station in Docklands and then were driven from there. If you plan to visit this area during your trip to Melbourne - highly advised as this can be combined with lunch at a lovely winery we'll talk about in a another post - maybe best is to rent a car.
View Post

20.4.18

Eucalyptus

eucalyptus leaves smell

Michael taught us how to experience an amazingly fresh and calming feeling:
  • Grab eucalyptus leaves 
  • Crunch'n'roll qith your hands 
  • Take a deep breath... And enjoy.
There were several things over last week that reminded about what matters in life, what truly makes you happy. It's typically more about people and time, than about spending or owning lots of money.

A walk in the nature, a beach day, a new city to explore, a bicycle ride under the sun, a dance class or some coffee and chatter, with old friends.

Life is amazing - get out and smell the Eucalyptus!

View Post

18.4.18

Melbourne - Docklands to the Royal Botanic Gardens with bike share

Melbourne yarra river tour by city bike, Docklands to Kings Garden
One app, some friends, sunshine and a bit of time. All you need to spend the perfect sightseeing time along the Yarra river. The best about Melbourne Bike Share system is that if you manage to drop your bike at the next station before 30min have gone by, there is no need to pay more. You can get a new bike later on completely free! For less than 3€ it is therefore possible to cover large distances.

I never owned a bike as child, so I am not very good at cycling. In fact, I was quite scared to try this because of my past experiences in Stockholm, where I tried to learn but each and every attempt would be a super stressful event. Swedes are all seasoned on wheels but also completely unable to tolerate someone who would move somewhat slowly and in a relatively shaky way. However in Melbourne, people are chill. I did not have any trouble and enjoyed the ride - while feeling super accomplished after completing all the way from Docklands to the Royal Botanic Gardens.

View Post

17.4.18

5 ways to experience Melbourne like a local

exploring Melbourne with the locals
Sophie, our local guide

Even if I came prepared with my Lonely Planet, the weekend turned out to be quite an experience thanks to the local advice and guidance provided by local colleagues and friends. Here are 5 plans to live Melbourne like a local:

View Post

12.2.14

French Polynesia: 2 weeks, 6 islands.



Polynesians. They are so fascinating to me.

They were great navigators, able to find small inhabited islands, using a whole range of techniques including use of the stars, the movement of ocean currents and wave patterns, the air and sea interference patterns caused by islands and atolls, the flight of birds, the winds and the weather. Scientists think that long-distance Polynesian voyaging followed the seasonal paths of birds. There are some references in their oral traditions to the flight of birds and some say that there were range marks onshore pointing to distant islands in line with these flyways.

One theory is that they would have taken a frigatebird with them. These birds refuse to land on the water as their feathers will become waterlogged making it impossible to fly. When the voyagers thought they were close to land they may have released the bird, which would either fly towards land or else return to the canoe. They were likely to have also used wave and swell formations to navigate and measured the time it took to sail between islands in "canoe-days’ or a similar type of expression.

The Great Polynesian migrations took them from Taiwan to Madagascar and Easter Island. These people carried coconuts, taro, pigs, chickens and breadfruit in their outrigger canoe, to perpetuate life in the new land discovered.

Some analysis indicate that they arrived to America before Columbus did. These guys were genius sailors. But unfortunately, they lacked a written language, so most of this knowledge was lost upon colonization :(


Ever wondered how was the Pacific inhabited? Through outrigger canoe trips.



There's quite a lot of people that mistake Tahiti for Haiti. Just like Sweden and Switzerland, these are very different things.

Tahiti is one island of the many included in French Polynesia. This a large group of islands is located in the middle of the Pacific. As shown in the map above, the extension is as large as Europe. To travel from Tahiti to the Marquesas (where Gaugin spent much of his life) is more or less like going from Stockholm to Paris. The atolls where the nuclear testing was conducted in the 90s (i.e. Mururoa & Fangatufa) are away from Tahiti, a distance comparable to what extends between Paris & Turkey. It is an amazing natural environment to dive, hike & experience, along with the locals that live in complete harmony with the nature that surrounds them.

French Polynesia. By the way, this is not a country on its own. Is actually France. Like many other territories included in the Overseas departments and territories of France - considerably larger than what one would expect.



Strangely enough, 80% of the population in French Polynesia is actually of Polynesian descent. Still, their culture is only visible in the locals. The French Government provides a lot of support in terms of educational premises, hospitals and roads, but puts zero money on preserving the amazing culture that discovered all the islands in the Pacific, well before Europeans could sail long distances.
We didn't paddle that very much, but certainly had a great time.

The best way to travel around Polynesia is to purchase an Air Tahiti Pass that allows you to discover more than one island in the same trip. It is well worth the money as the islands are very unique. So you can experience different flavors during your vacation.

Here's our split, flying from one island to the next:
- Moorea : 3 nights
- Raitaea: 1 night (*I'd recommend 2 nights, assuming that a tour around Taha'a is secured)
- Bora-Bora: 4 nights
- Rangiroa: 3 nights
- Fakarava: 2 nights
- Tahiti: 2 nights

Polynesia is a great diving destination too. The best diving spots are the atolls in the Tuamotus (Rangiroa, Tikehau, Fakarava) because they offer pretty coral & large animals like sharks, manta rays, dolphins and even whales (July to October). To do it economically, you should go for the Te Moana Pass which is a multi-island pass so you can purchase 10 tanks at once and use it in one of the 16 dive centers spread around 11 islands, as you like.

Given the long flight just to get there (8h from LA, 12h from Tokyo, over 20h from Paris) this is not a budget destination, but is doable on a midrange budget. But you will have to accept rustic locations, family pensions, cold water showers & non-drinkable taps. If you enjoy great hotels at low prices, maybe you should try in Thailand or Bali. The Resorts on private sand islet aka Motu (specially those in Taha'a and Bora-Bora) start at 500€/night. Clearly not within everyone's reach (at least, not mine). 

Welcome to our Polynesian Passage!

View Post

11.2.14

Tahiti: Papeete

papeete
Like the legend of the phoenix, all ends with beginnings.

View Post

10.2.14

Fakarava: Rotoava



Since Havaiki didn't give us a bike either, we kept walking. 6km after, we arrived to the cute little town of Rotoava. Which is nothing more than houses lined up a bit closer to each other. A supermarket. A church. 2km more. The airport.

View Post

8.2.14

Fakarava: Havaiki Village



In our last day in Fakarava, we really wanted to rent a bike. Even though I don't quite know how to ride. All where taken in our pension, so we walked to the next and the next and the next one.

View Post

7.2.14

Fakarava: Tropical Sunsets



This post is for you, suckers of powdery pastel tropical shades. Feel free to download any of these pictures as your desktop background. It'll dramatically cut down your stress levels.

View Post

6.2.14

Fakarava: Welcome to the jungle



14:00. 

View Post

5.2.14

Fakarava: Vaiama Village



Sometimes people may get the wrong impression when I talk about Polynesian Pension de Famille. These places, like Vaiama Village, are not crappy accommodations, but rustic variants of design hotels in Polynesia. With a family atmosphere.

View Post

4.2.14

Rangiroa: New Year, new island


Not a bad start of 2014, right? Not at all. After lounging by the pool of Maitai Rangiroa during the morning, it was time to kiss bye bye to its super comfortable bungalows (completely sealed, air conditioned) which were just a bit more expensive than Pension Tuanake. In short, book in advance and try Maitai if you like a bit of comfort (instead of being after a truly rustic experience with all the love of a Polynesian family).
View Post

3.2.14

Rangiroa: Polynesia NYE


This is how Polynesian NYE ended up...

..let's rewind to the start.


Usual morning of fresh fruit and hotel change. We finally moved to MaiTai to start the year partying with our friends from the 6 passengers, the lovely Tanya, Elko & Yoshi-san (who is actually our neighbor, just 3' away by bike door-to-door, in Tokyo :O)


Usual gorgeousness.


Over and over again.


Incredible shades (no photoshop here)



Neither photoshop here.



And from there, we landed into the free champagne.



Happy faces & funny hats.



It was not exactly packed, probably because all the Japanese were already in bed as "tomorrow they had to dive"



But we made the most out of the party. Remaining party.



This is probably not quite the party you'd expected, but as I said before, this is not a clubbing destination. People are mostly honeymooners or divers or both. It's almost like getting super drunk and partying till the wee hours doesn't fit well here. As you can see, it's not that we had hard techno either... More like a Jamaican version of ay si eu te pego

View Post

2.2.14

Rangiroa: The 6 Passengers


One comes to Rangiroa for the diving.

View Post
© dontplayahate. All rights reserved.
DONTPLAYAHATE